Goats are complex animals that have a variety of needs. Before bringing your new goats home, you need to be sure to have all of the necessary materials to maintain these animals, and keep them happy and healthy.
SPACE/HOUSING: Goats that are packed into to an area like sardines are more likely to become stressed and develop health issues. A good rule of thumb is to keep a maximum of six goats per acre. The area that you provide must be as sanitary as possible, meaning that the goats come into contact with manure, mud, etc. as little as possible. It is also important to note that keeping the area dry is essential to prevent common, but potentially serious issues like hoof rot. Goats must also have shelter from the elements. A wet goat can very easily become a sick goat. Make sure that your shelter provides enough space for all of your goats to get under if necessary. Please also keep in mind providing a large enough shelter so that lower-ranking animals will be able to escape any goats that bully them. The fencing that you choose must be able to both contain your goats and keep predators out. Electric fencing tends to work very well. If you choose other types of fencing, make sure that it is tall enough and sturdy enough to contain the animals. Does and bucks generally should not be housed together. Bucks will need their own enclosure away from the does. Sometimes I do allow my does and bucks to graze together in the pasture for a little while, but I only allow this to happen with does whom I know are pregnant (helps me keep up with who bred who). Underage does should never be allowed near bucks, along with heavily-pregnant does or young kids. Bucks that are aggressive should never be allowed with does outside of breeding.
FEEDING: Feeding goats can be a complex endeavor. If kept on good pasture, this should provide the animals with much of their needed nutrients and calories. Lactating and pregnant animals may need to be supplemented with a high quality feed to maintain body condition. It is important to note that even if pasture is provided, hay must still be fed free-choice. Hay prevents worm infestation and keeps the digestive system running smoothly. If no pasture is available, it is up to the owner to try to recreate the diet that resembles pasture feeding as best as possible. Good quality hay must be offered at all times. By "good quality," I mean horse-quality, pale green hay. I am NOT referring to the large, yellow round bales that are often offered to cattle. Quality hay is essential to maintain body condition and provide key nutrients. About 85-90% of a goat's diet should consist of pasture forage or quality hay. In addition to hay, an animal that does not have access to pasture will likely need to be supplemented with grain. Alfalfa pellets are also a good choice for supplementing their diet. Please note that alfalfa and grain should be fed sparingly- that is, about a cup or so per non-lactating or pregnant animal. Also note that each animal is different and you may need to adjust grain intake accordingly. Pellets, grain, and any other type of bagged animal feed should never be fed free-choice. ALWAYS HAVE WATER AVAILABLE TO YOUR GOATS. It may seem obvious, but trust me, some folks just don't seem to get it.
SUPPLEMENTS: A mineral block that is specifically designed for goats must be available to them at all times. I have also had success with horse mineral blocks, as these tend to be higher in copper. Copper is one of the key minerals for goats. It keeps them healthy and their coats shiny; so typically, the higher copper-content, the better. Baking soda is also a good idea to offer free-choice as it aides in digestion.
The following are optional supplements that I often include in my goats' diets:
Apple Cider Vinegar: I use up to a tablespoon of this per gallon of my goats' drinking water. It is thought to have a variety of health benefits, but I mainly use it as parasite prevention in my herd.
Pine Needles: I feed this free-choice to my goats. Once again, it aids in internal parasite prevention. Please make sure that if you buy these from a store that they are free of pesticides and other chemicals.
Oats, beet pulp, black oil sunflower seeds: These can be given as supplements to lactating does to maintain body condition and improve milk production. It can also be fed to animals that are underweight or need a little help maintaining good condition.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Along with the above, you will need to come up with a plan for parasite management in your herd. I choose the natural route whenever possible, but others choose to chemically deworm their animals. Whatever method you choose, be sure to do plenty of research on it beforehand.
Be sure to find a vet in your area that is familiar with goats. You never know when you may need his/her assistance.
ALWAYS keep your goats away from gardens and ornamental plants. Many plants are toxic to goats.
A good way to check the health of your goat and parasite status is the check the goat's inner eyelids. Any color but a dark/medium pink warrants immediate attention. Internal parasites kill quickly. If your deworming methods do not improve the goat's condition, it is always a good idea to take a fecal sample from that goat to the vet for analysis. The vet will prescribe medication according to the type of parasites that have infested.
Goats are herd animals; never have just one alone. It is cruel. Even bucks need a buddy, whether it be a wether or other buck. This does not apply to goats that are in labor or the couple of days following birth.
Does should never be bred before the age of 8 months. With mini nubians, it is sometimes best to wait until the doe is a year old to breed. Breeding too early can have a negative impact on the doe's growth.
Goat hooves need to be trimmed periodically. Trim whenever the hoof gets overgrown. You can find plenty of informational videos about how to trim on YouTube.
If you are new to goats, I suggest getting a couple of weaned babies when just starting out. This will allow you to bond with them along with gaining much-needed experience. Do not attempt to breed, milk, etc. until you know the basics and have that down pat! Don't get in over your head too quickly.
If something appears to be wrong with your goat (low weight, scruffy fur, etc.) please research the issue and ask for help when necessary. It is always best to address issues with goats early-on rather than wait for them to progress.
ABOVE ALL.... Please do you due diligence and ensure that you are going to provide your animal with the proper care. Be responsible.